Tasmania, known colloquially as “Tassie” is an island state of Australia. It is located 240 km to the south of the Australian mainland, separated by the Bass Strait. It is the 26th largest island in the world and has a population of 518,000. Hobart is the state capital and largest city. Out introduction to Tassie was the Tasman Peninsula, located one hour from Hobart. We flew into Hobart airport from Melbourne and drove straight to the Tasman Peninsula. We had just two nights to spend here and a lot to cram in.
BLOWHOLE, TASMAN ARCH AND DEVIL’S KITCHEN
Having travelled across the 100 metre wide isthmus of Eaglehawk Neck to the Tasman Peninsula we visited the Blowhole, Tasman Arch (natural bridge) and Devil’s Kitchen (60 metre deep cleft), all fine examples of coastal scenery. The coastline is spectacular south of the Neck and well worth seeing.
TASMAN ISLAND CRUISE
The next day we went on a Tasman Island Cruise with Pennicott Wilderness Journeys. A speed boat trip with chances to see whales, dolphins, albatross, seals, and penguins all while marveling at the rugged Tasmania coastline. It was a bright, sunny day, perfect for a boat ride.
The Christmas break is peak holiday time in Australia and there were three full boats on our morning trip. Along with about forty five other people, we all donned oversized red waterproof coats and then boarded our boat at the Eaglehawk Neck harbour. We were wearing four or five layers in readiness for the boat ride and they were definitely needed, even on a sunny day. Once on board, the staff made sure that all those sat up front were wearing seat belts, whilst those of us at the back had to remain seated. The recent stormy weather had left behind three to four metre swells in the ocean and we were told there would be some “rocking and rolling”. As a precaution the staff handed out seasickness medication to all those on board that wanted it. We had already taken some in readiness for the trip.
As we pulled out of the shelter of the bay and began speeding down along the coastline, the fun began. The scenery was amazing, with tall cliffs, huge waves splashing up against the coastline, and birds flying overhead.
We didn’t see a whale (too late in the season) or any penguins but we did see lots of fur seals. We saw both Australian and New Zealand fur seals lazing on the rocks and playing in the surf. Seals are extremely awkward moving about on land, but once in the sea, are incredibly fast and agile.
Initially we had sunny weather as we cruised past Tasman Arch, Waterfall Bay, fine cliff formations, Dolerite spires and sea stacks, including the Candlestick and Totem Pole, and Cape Hauy.
As we proceeded south towards Cape Pillar and Tasman Island the rain came in. At Cape Pillar, the southernmost point of the Tasman Peninsula, and Tasman Island, the swells got larger. We entered the South Sea, the most tumultuous sea on Earth. Our small boat was rocking up and down in the water and the rain was blowing in our faces. Tasman Island is home to a lighthouse which was manned until 1977. Families would spend between twelve and 36 months at a time on the island! All supplies would be bought by boat and winched up a flying fox and haulage-way up to the lighthouse. This must be one of the most isolated lighthouses in Australia. Tasman Island is also the turning point for yachts in the Sydney to Hobart race.
From here it was time to turn back and return to the harbour at Eaglehawk Neck. It was a fantastic trip, very much enjoyed by us all.
PORT ARTHUR HISTORIC SITE
In Australia, there are many historic penal sites that can be toured, but one of the most important is the Port Arthur Historic Site, located on the Tasman Peninsula. The Port Arthur penal station was set up in 1830 as a timber-getting camp, using convict labour to produce sawn logs. From 1833 Port Arthur was used as a punishment station for repeat offenders from all Australian colonies, many from the United Kingdom. The model for Port Arthur was based on Pentonville in England designed by the English prison reformer Jeremy Bentham. He described it as “a machine for grinding rogues into honest men”. The cogs of this machine included discipline and punishment, religious and moral instruction, classification and separation, training and education.
We took a super introductory walking tour, included in the ticket price, which explained the history of the site and the uses of many of the buildings. After this we toured some of the many buildings ourselves. We also took a short cruise around the bay viewing the Isle of the Dead, the settlements cemetery, and Point Puer Boys’ Prison, a purpose built juvenile reformatory for boys aged between 9-17!
Port Arthur, with its coastline location, was an inescapable prison (although some did try). The shark infested waters kept prisoners from escaping by sea and the small isthmus of land that connects the Tasman Peninsula to the mainland was manned by soldiers and dogs. We stopped at the location of the dog line on Eaglehawk Neck where there now stands a fierce looking bronze dog.
Port Arthur is also the site of Australia’s worst mass murder event, when, in 1996, thirty five people were killed by a man with a semiautomatic gun.
WHERE WE STAYED
We spent two nights at the Port Arthur Villas in a simple two bedroom apartment. It was comfortable enough and contained everything we needed. It is within walking distance of the historic site.
