Love Luang Prabang in 7 Different Ways

There are countless ways to enjoy the peaceful and picturesque city of Luang Prabang and surrounding area, but here are seven ways we had fun and ultimately found ourselves completely enchanted by this destination.

#1. CYCLE SAFARI

The traffic is sufficiently calm and low density that getting around Luang Prabang by bicycle is a real joy.  Most guest houses provide bicycles for free or there are hire shops throughout town.  No fancy machinery is needed to get all around the town, so be satisfied if your bike looks like a museum exhibit as long as it has inflated tyres and a decent saddle.  Start at the post office and head south up the hill, the Traditional Arts and Ethnic Centre is on the left, it contains a concise and informative exhibition about the different minority peoples of Laos…which ironically make up the majority of the population!  There is an interactive element to the centre including quiz sheets for children of different ages.  Back on the bikes head for the Old Bridge across the river and navigate along the wooden planks that are now only used by motorbikes, pedal bikes and walkers – test your balancing skills to keep a straight line while also avoiding gaps in the planks which swallow up the narrow bike tyres.

On the other side turn left and follow the road then dirt track for a few kilometres until you reach Xang Khong, a traditional paper making and weaving village.  There are about ten houses you can walk around and see products being made, chat to the locals, and buy something that catches your eye, although most of the fun is in getting there and seeing village life outside the town.  On the way back stop at Dyen Sabai, a relaxing cafe next to the river with low tables, cushions on the floor for seats, and nice buffalo sausage as a snack!  After getting refreshed go back along the Old Bridge and follow the road along the river bank, the traffic fades away along the peninsular and it’s a pleasant flat pedal out to where the Nam Khan river joins the Mekong.  Stopping at the headland provides a great vantage point to take in the confluence and the multitude of fishermen that work this area of the rivers.

Cycling back along the peninsular take the road that runs parallel to the river front road, and find yourself transported back 100 years into the grandeur of Luang Prabang while it was the location of the French commissariat during their time in Laos.  Stunning restored villas in leafy avenues showcase teak verandas, shuttered windows, and lush gardens.  Sooner or later you will reach the Palace which is well worth a visit to see how the Royal family in Laos lived until 1975.

Before returning to the start of this loop route drop in at Indigo Cafe to re-energise with a healthy fruit shake drink or a pastry from the well stocked bakery table outside.  The whole route is about 10kms and makes for a leisurely morning or afternoon activity.

#2. ELEPHANT ENCOUNTERS

Obviously a visit to the land of a million elephants should involve some close contact with said animal.  Our amazing elephant encounter is recorded in Learning to be a Mahout at the Elephant Village.  It is two days of life that will forever be one of the most amazing family experiences we enjoy.

#3. NIGHT MARKET

South East Asia loves night markets and so it’s easy to feel like this particular activity is old news by the time you reach Laos, but this market is absolutely worth spending time to wander around.  It’s very food and craft focussed and the variety of products for sale is extensive.  Bartering is also in line with the overall pace of life in Laos….so expect the prices to be fair in the first instance and any negotiation conducted in a friendly manner with everyone ending up smiling.  The market completely fills the main street, it starts about 5pm and goes until late.  You can buy a feast from the street food sellers and dine while you walk or there is a wide selection of cafes dotted along the route where you can seemingly get whatever type of global cuisine takes your fancy, and most provide great vantage points for watching the world go by.

#4. WHAT, MORE WATS?

The temple mania you might experience in other cities of this region is far more subtle in Luang Prabang, and indeed the temples themselves whilst impressive, tend to be part of the overall scene rather than attractions in isolation.  Xieng Thong is the best known temple and has low sweeping roof lines encasing the usual ornate interior.  Luckily it escaped the city’s sacking in 1887, only because the leader of the attacking Black Flag army had studied there as a junior monk and decided to make the wat his head quarters while in town.

Phu Si is the 100m high hill at the centre of town and is topped with the 24m high golden stupa named That Chomsi.  It’s a mecca for sunset worshippers but also provides a wonderful 360 degree view around Luang Prabang.

Wat Suwannaphumaham is worth a mention if only because of the number of syllables in the name, but more than that it provides a candle lit haven halfway along the night market where you can drop into the courtyard and enjoy some quiet contemplation before rejoining the market amble.  Incidentally, it’s home of the Sangharat, the head of Lao Buddhism.

#5. CAFE CULTURE AND FAB FOOD

The world has many things to thank the French for (…pasteurisation, braille, the pencil sharpener, a short working week and Eric Cantona) but high on the list must be the cafe culture and cuisine it introduced to Luang Prabang.  It seems fresh baguette is baked every morning as a matter of course, pastries are as common as handicrafts at the pavement stalls, and crepes are the real thing rather than the english pancake corruption.  Fine dining set among beautiful lotus flower ponds is available at Manda de Laos. La Banneton Cafe is reputed to make the best flour in town…and it shows from the taste of their baguettes and galettes.  The remarkable Tamarind has taken advantage of the food focus and brought local Laos cooking into a tasting plate style menu, which you can also learn to make yourself at their cookery school – be sure to book ahead for a table at the restaurant.  The quality of food and service is high across the city, options for cuisine are expansive, and the food experiences you have at Luang Prabang will be among the most memorable in South East Asia.

#6. LIGHT UP THE NIGHT

Laotians love a good festival and if you’re fortunate to be around when they are preparing for or celebrating a major event it’s likely to create some lifelong memories.  A highlight of the year in Luang Prabang is the festival of Bun Awk Phansa, which celebrates the end of the three month rains retreat.  Monks are allowed to leave the monasteries and receive alms, while everyone else celebrates by lighting candles…millions of them.  During the days before the celebration every house seems to adorn itself with more and more candle lanterns, while schools and villages construct decorative boats made of bamboo and colourful wax paper, which are then festooned with candles.

On the day of the festival, the decorative boats are brought into town, eventually arranged as a carnival line and paraded through the centre of town to be judged.  There are tens of boats in a long parade, accompanied by thousands of people playing drums, singing, and dancing their way to the river.

At the river everyone lights yet more candles, this time in small banana leaf boats that get floated off onto the river.

It’s a mesmerising event to be part of and so if there is any way to schedule your visit for October then it’s well worth making this a mark in the calendar.

#7. FLOAT AROUND

The laid back pace of life in Luang Prabang means that you feel like you’re floating around every day, but it’s well worth going for the real thing and floating on the Mekong.  Our multi-day boat trip is covered in Taking a Slow Boat Down the Mighty Mekong River blog post, but you can also do shorter excursions from Luang Prabang to see a local village, visit the caves or waterfalls.  We highly recommend the two day trip if you have time.

WHERE WE STAYED

Thongbay Guest House was a haven of tranquility for our stay in Luang Prabang.  It’s on the riverside one kilometre from the town centre.  We had a family villa set amongst amazing gardens (orchids hanging in baskets from the palm trees!) and overlooking the river.  Everything about our stay was exceptional, it’s a family run guest house and you are made to feel like part of the family!  Comment has to be made about the breakfast, which is the best we have enjoyed on the trip so far.  Ordered in advance, cooked fresh and then served wherever you want it, so we enjoyed private family dining every day overlooking the river.