Our time in Thailand was coming to an end. Chiang Rai was our final destination. This small town is located in the far northeast of Thailand. Chiang Rai province has a little bit of everything: mountains in the far east, the lowland Mekong River floodplains to the northeast, and the province shares borders with Laos and Myanmar. We spent four days in this delightful place.
THE WHITE TEMPLE (WAT RONG KHUN)
The White Temple, also known as Wat Rong Khun, is very different to many other temples. The White Temple, as its name implies, is completely white, but also covered in clear mirrored tiles, making it shimmer in the sunlight. The temple is fairly new, having been built in 1997 by a noted Thai painter turned architect. It is a very unconventional temple. To enter the temple you have to walk past past hands reaching up from the ground, through a pair of oversized elephant tusks, and past ceramic heads of famous movie characters hanging from the trees!
Inside the temple, the artist has painted contemporary scenes. Images such as a plane smashing into the Twin Towers and, oddly enough Keanu Reeves as Neo from the Matrix, not to mention Elvis, Hello Kitty and Superman, dominate the one finished wall of this work in progress. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to see these painted scenes as it was raining and considered too slippery to enter the temple.
THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE
The Golden Triangle, the meeting point of three countries, Thailand, Laos and Myanmar, and the confluence of the Nam Rouk and the Mekong River, is centred upon Sop Ruak. This area is famous for its opium trade and was until the 1990’s a lawless and unsafe area run by the drug lords. The region was the world’s biggest grower of Palaver somniferous, the poppy that produces opium. Poverty and the lack of infrastructure and governance in the largely rebel controlled areas meant that growing poppies and transporting opium proceeded virtually unchecked, eventually making its way around the world as refined heroin.
The area’s opium days are now (mostly) gone, and this area is now safe to visit. Since the early 21st century Afghanistan’s Golden Crescent has replaced the region as the world’s preeminent producer of opium. We viewed the meeting point of the three countries, Thailand, Laos and Myanmar, and the confluence of the two rivers, before heading to the Hall of Opium. This multi-media exhibition offers a fascinating history of opium, as well as information on the effects of abuse on countries and individuals. The exhibition is definitely worth seeing.
MAE SALONG
Mae Salong is an atmospheric hill-top village perched on the back hills of Chiang Rai, with a distinctly Chinese vibe. There are many tea plantations and fruit orchards in the region. The roads are steep and winding getting to and from Mae Salong but for those that make the journey the views and surrounding tea plantations are worthwhile. A tea plantation is well worth visiting. We saw tea pickers out in the fields picking tea into large baskets strapped to their backs. Afterwards we tasted many different types of tea at a local market.
HILLTRIBE VILLAGES
About twenty minutes outside of Chiang Rai is the hill tribe village. Here you will find five small Thai hill tribe villages – Karen (long neck ladies), Kayor, Akha, Lahu and Yao. Many photo opportunities exist as the villagers are dressed in traditional dress and glimpses of traditional life can be seen. Local handicrafts are sold. However, the cost of admission is high, 300THB for adults and 200THB for children. Only Flynn and I went into the villages as we thought it was too expensive for a family. It also feels very staged to have five tribes convened in one area.
WHERE WE STAYED AND ATE IN CHIANG RAI…
We stayed at Nak Nakara, a small hotel with a lovely pool, perfect for cooling off after a day sightseeing. Located a ten minute walk from the centre of town and the Night Market.
As in Chiang Mai, there are some great places to eat in Chiang Rai. Here are three of our favourites…
Cheviot Thamma Da – an english style tea house located on the banks of the river. The garden is beautiful with swinging chairs, a tree swing and a table chess board. Food and drinks served throughout the day. A wonderful setting. Well worth a visit.
Melt In Your Mouth – another english style teahouse, again located on the banks of the river. Serves great snacks and drinks.
Hungry Wolf’s – for those in need of a western fix this is the place to go, located in central Chiang Rai, this place serves burgers, pizza, pasta and steak. Portions are huge so make sure you’re hungry when you visit.
